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Down the Hatch

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Description: Stewart Kellerman reviews 'The Primal Feast: Food, Sex, Foraging, and Love' by Susan Allport.
A naturalist explores the anthropology of food and its place in the relation between the sexes. y 86-year-old father is a chow hound. His life revolves around the lunch menu at the senior center in his New England town. If it's noon on Tuesday, he's having pot roast. On Thursday, it's veal scaloppine. Friday? He'll skip the fish sticks and take the bus to the Kmart plaza for pizza. I couldn't help thinking of him as I read the naturalist Susan Allport's delicious new book, ''The Primal Feast,'' an account of her omnivorous foraging through berry patches and scientific literature for proof of the old saying that you are what you eat.
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